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| Issue 1, September/October 2005 |
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| Tasting |
The 2002 Domaine Familiaux de Tradition Annual Burgundy tasting in association with the Institute of Masters of Wine, London, March 2005 |
| The 2002 vintage |
| Tasting notes (notes on scoring wine in bottle) |
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| Les Domaines Familiaux de Tradition Annual Burgundy Tasting in association with The Institute of Masters of Wine (London, March 2005) |
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| This section is divided up into: |
| 2002 Vintage, weather and wine |
| Note on scoring wine in bottle |
| Tasting notes |
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| 2002 vintage; weather and wine |
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| A cold and dry winter was followed by a generally warm and dry summer. Anne Claude Leflaive reports that there was less than 500mm rain in the year. This made it a disease free year for the white producers of the Côte de Beaune, a welcome change, Leflaive comments, after three years of mildew and one of oidium. In some areas the fruit development was blocked, although a little rain alleviated the situation. A perfect, not too warm September followed. A cold North wind and bright skies, similar to 1996, came at the right time to concentrate the grapes and the harvest began on the 15th September. |
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| It was a largish vintage, although not as large as 1996, and one with good polyphenolic ripeness giving very well mannered tannins. Benoit Germain describes it thus. “Good maturity, good balance, powerful…it didn’t need much extraction.” In general the 2002s are marked with fresh acidity and with an excellent harmony. Frederick Drouhin emphasises this balance. “Two thousand and two is a vintage which combined everything, beautiful grapes, good ripeness and nice equilibrium.” He also notes that, “the Chablis, quite close in style to 2000, are very true to their individual appellations and terroir.” |
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| The quality is good across appellations of the Côte d’Or. As the young Erwan Faiveley who has recently succeeded his father comments, “The majority made good wine. Quality is very even across production.” Pierre Morey agrees adding that generic wine was very good, and he describes it as a “classical vintage.” |
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| The wines have been charming and open from the start, not just the generic wines, but many village wines and even some premier cru. Renaud de Villette at Domaine du Marquis d’Angerville remarks on how accessible their Volnays have been. |
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| However it was obvious from the Domaines Familiaux de Tradition tasting in February that the vintage is closing up. (Seductive as the 2002s have been, you would do better to drink the 2000s, which are very pleasant now, but will not evolve long-term and are already showing evolution). |
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| The 2002s have excellent potential for maturation over the long term. The firm acidity and overall balance should ensure this. Pierre Morey advises ‘forgetting’ his wines for ten years. Anne Claude Leflaive considers that the 2002s show “excellent structure, elegance, fruit, raciness and balance – all the qualities to indicate that they will age well,” but she warns they need time, at least 5-6 years before starting to drink them. In general the premier cru and grand cru whites should evolve over the next 10-15 years in some cases more. Top reds from the Côte de Nuits should evolve over 20-25 years plus and good premier cru from the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuit should develop over at least 15 years. |
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| As this wine is in bottle I have awarded marks out of 20. The marking is within the context of the vintage. Obviously this is very good vintage, so high marks are to be expected, but equally there could be high marks in a lesser vintage. The difficult part is scoring wines in relation to their peers. I have marked in the context of the Côte D’Or, rather than within villages, and to a certain extent have used the appellation level as a ceiling. That said, I have awarded top marks to the finest quality Volnay (Lafarge’s Volnay 1er Cru Clos de Chênes) even though the appellation is premier cru. I admit this is imperfect, as one can argue that it doesn’t leave room for the finest grand cru from the Côte de Nuits, however where a premier cru out performs its AC, I think it is justified. |
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| At the other end of the scale it might be confusing to award a very good ‘lesser’ AC a very high mark. So for example Pierre Morey’s excellent Monthélie received 15, not 17. To get round the problem, I have used the tasting note to convey the quality, and to show if a wine outperforms its AC level more than I can reflect in the marks. So please read the note and don’t just note the score! At the opposite end of the scale, wine which fails to reach the expectations of its AC quality level, particularly an under-performing grand cru or for that matter premier cru, is quite severely marked down. |
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| Note that these were taken in March 2005. Those who attended this tasting, or contributed wine, will notice 4 or 5 white wines missing. These I am afraid had been polished off by the time I had methodically tasted through the reds. Fortunately there will be other occasions to report on the 2002s. |
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| Bourgogne Chardonnay, Domaine Pierre Morey |
Attractive, zesty aromas with good fruit, freshness and minerality on palate. This seriously over delivers for a Bourgogne blanc. Drink now and over the next 3 or 4 years.
Score: 14. |
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| Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnère, Domaine François Raveneau |
Firm minerality on the nose with good intensity. Tight stony palate and very vibrant acidity balanced by good depth of fruit. Energetic, focused and polished with an excellent finish. This wine had been open for several hours and was expressive. Wait 3-5 years and drink for a least the following five years.
Score: 19 |
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| Chablis 1er Cru Foût, Domaine François Raveneau |
Very intense and rich aroma. Good density of fruit on the palate with very firm acidity cutting through the opulence. Taut. Marvellous balance and a very long finish. Tense now, needs time. Wait three years. Should develop over the following 5 years plus. Very fine wine.
Score: 18+ |
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| Rully 1er Cru, Domaine Eric de Suremain |
Attractive apricot aromas with fresh acidity, moderate breadth and concentration, but without showing any particular distinction. Drink now.
Score: 13 |
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| Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc, Château de Chorey |
Full, arresting, spicy aroma. This shows good quality fruit, breadth and lovely acidity and a more than reasonable finish for the AC level, but the use of new oak overwhelms and I think it would be more attractive with less. Wait a couple of years and drink over the following 3 or 4.
Score: 14 |
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| Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc, Domaine Simon Bize et Fils |
An elegant, intense aroma of stone fruit. Lovely balance, depth, zesty acidity, and a prolonged finish. A good deal of complexity for a village wine. Top notch. Drink now and over the short term, 2 or 3 years or so.
Score: 15 |
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| Beaune Clos du Dessus des Marconnets, Domaine Labet-Dechelette |
Low key aroma. Moderate breadth, definition and minerality. Well balanced with a decent finish. Quite closed. Wait for a couple for years. Drink over 5 years.
Score 15 |
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| Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc, Domaine Joseph Drouhin |
Very closed, particularly on the nose. Excellent breadth, firm definition and good density of fruit with a long, lingering finish. Distinctive terroir character – a stony earthiness. Fine to very fine. Wait perhaps 2 or 3 years. Drink for the following 10 years plus.
Score 18 |
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| Meursault, Pierre Morey |
Quite exotic aroma. A broad palate with full, well-ripened fruit balanced by vibrant acidity. Low toned, but with distinctive and generous Meursault character. An impressive level of complexity for a village wine. Needs a couple of years, then drink over 5 plus.
Score 15+ |
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| Meursault Clos de La Barre, Domaine des Comtes Lafon |
Flamboyant wine. Succulent richness, full-bodied but not fat. Excellent balance with concentrated fruit and lively acidity. Glossy, but earthy and with a persistent, rich finish. Very serious for a village wine. Wait 2 years. Drinking for up to another 8.
Score 17 |
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| Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, Domaine des Comtes Lafon |
Baroque wine. Nose closing up. Richness and breadth, but also nicely compact. Amply shaped, but has good energy, excellent balance and an impressive finish. Longer than the Clos de Barre and with quite a touch more elegance. Wait 2-3 years. Drinking for another 10 years.
Score 18 |
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| Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive |
Very tight at the moment. Closed nose. Closely knit palate, with a pure and stony character. Focused acidity and a well sustained finish. Top quality village wine. Wait at least 2 years. Drink over the following 5 plus years.
Score: 17 |
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| Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières, Louis Jadot |
Notable depth and concentration of fruit on the palate. Tight acidity and a serious finish. A firmly structured white for the long haul…perhaps a shade ‘robust’, but fine none-the-less. Wait for the oak to fully integrate, which will certainly take a couple of years. Drinking over the following 10 plus years.
Score 17+ |
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| Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Domaine Bonneau du Martray |
Tight aromas promising great intensity. A very taut palate with underlying opulence. Muscular, yet elegant. Massive density of fruit, with breadth, but also with great focus, reinforced by lively acidity. Seriously complex with a powerful finish that goes on and on. This is a many layered wine, which needs time (leave it 5 to 6 years) and should develop over the following 15 years. It doesn’t get better than this.
Score: 20 |
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| Rully 1er Cru Préaux, Domaine de Suremain |
Bright lively aroma. Nicely balanced wine, with a rounded mouth-feel, soft tannins and a moderate finish. Drink now and short term.
Score 13 |
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| Monthélie Rouge, Pierre Morey |
Powerful aroma, dark fruits and slightly spicy. Firm, tight grained tannins, fresh acidity, slightly earthy minerality and a decent finish. Linear style with firm fruit in the middle palate. Really rather good. Give it a year or two, and drink over the next 5 years
Score 15 |
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| Château de Monthélie 1er Cru Sur la Velle, Domaine de Suremain |
Rather indistinct aroma. Sweet and creamy palate; generally light and pleasant, but without structured backbone. Falls short of the quality expected of a 1er Cru.
Score 13+ |
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| Chorey-lès-Beaune, Chateau de Chorey |
Attractive black cherry, lightly smoky and creamy aroma. Attractive firm, ripe tannins and a pleasant velvety texture. Quite broad with moderate concentration and fresh acidity which is carried on to a very respectable finish. Nicely balanced wine. Drink now and until 2010.
Score 15+ |
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| Chorey-lès-Beaune, Domaine Tollot-Beaut et Fils |
Bright, red, estery aromatics and a light, but lively palate. Very pretty wine showing good typicity for the village. It’s quite stylish, but shows only moderate depth and intensity. Drink now and short term.
Score 14 |
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| Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode, Domaine Bruno Clair |
Very intense fruit-driven aroma. Lovely deep red fruits dominate the palate balanced by fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins. There is decent grip and definition and an attractive, fruity finish. Good wine, with excellent depth of fruit, although perhaps just a little solid. Wait a year or so. Drink over the following 5-8 years.
Score 16 |
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| Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Marconnets, Domaine Simon Bize et Fils |
Closed on the nose. Firm structured, low-toned wine, with dense, grainy tannins and fresh acidity. Although it is tight now, the middle palate shows good density, and the layers are distinguishable. Perhaps illustrates that Marconnets does not produce as sophisticated and finely textured wine as other 1er Cru from Bize. Wait 2 or 3 years. Good for up to ten.
Score 16 |
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| Beaune 1er Cru Coucherais, Domaine Labet-Dechelette |
Bright red fruits. Lively palate, crunchy fruit but lacking stuffing in the middle and somewhat superficial.
Score 14 |
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| Beaune 1er Cru Les Cras, Château de Chorey |
Intensely juicy aroma of morello cherries. Sumptuous. Sweetness of oak dominates the front of palate. Quite high tannin component, but a seductive, plump, rounded palate, nicely balanced with fresh acidity and a moderately long, sweet finish. It’s a stylish wine. Give it 2 or 3 years. Drink over 10 plus.
Score 16+ |
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| Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches, Domaine Joseph Drouhin |
Aroma is floral and lifted with attractive red fruits, slight spice, good typicty, grip and intensity. An elegant palate with chalky acidity and fine, firm tannins. A deceptively light, but intense and focused palate, with a powerful and very prolonged finish. Give it 4 years. Should evolve well over 15 years.
Score 17+ |
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| Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules, Louis Jadot |
Creamy red fruits on the nose. Very attractive. Showing new oak with a very ‘sweet’ first impression. Palate has a lovely silky texture and is well defined and has firm, fine tannins. Quality of fruit is evident in the density of middle palate. Sweet, prolonged finish. Drink in 4 years or so. Should evolve for 15.
Score 17+ |
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| Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes, Domaine Michel Lafarge |
Perfumed, lifted and elegant, but signs of closing down. Delicate, but ripe sweetness, and silkiness are the first impressions, followed by a very tight middle palate, with fine-grained tannins, and thinly veiled complexity. As it’s closing down it may need a further 2 or 3 years to open up again. Sophisticated wine, with a plump middle palate, but also a touch of the ethereal and deliciously pure. Very, very long. Drink over 12-15 years and maybe more. This is an outstanding wine.
Score 20 |
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| Volnay 1er Cru, Domaine du Marquis d’Angerville |
Very closed on nose. Minerality on palate with fine chalky tannins. Wonderful directness of style and purity of fruit. Wait 2 years or so for it to come round again. Drink over the following 10-12.
Score 17 |
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| Volnay 1er Cru Frémiet, Domaine du Marquis d’Angerville |
Perfumed and floral. More richness and breadth on the palate than the straight 1er Cru. This is accompanied by a particularly focused palate, great finesse and superbly fine tannins. Very refined. Wait 2 or 3 years, as it’s certain to close down, although it’s lovely now. Drink over the following 10-15 years.
Score 18 |
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| Volnay 1er Cru Champans, Domaine du Marquis d’Angerville |
Berrish, but very tight. Bigger more concentrated and rounder mouthfeel than the Frémiet. Velvety tannins, deeply layered, with excellent harmony. This wine combines power and elegance and completes with a very long and sumptuous finish. Wait 2 or 3 years and drink over the next 15 years.
Score 19 |
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| Volnay 1er Cru Santenots du Milieu, Domaine des Comtes Lafon |
Rich intensity of fruit on the nose, but clearly closing up. Full, rounded palate, excellent depth and intensity. Unctuous, without being overblown. This is a generous Volnay with ample fruit, velvety tannins and high gloss. Wait a year or two and drink over the next 10-15 plus.
Score 18+ |
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| Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds, Domaine Hubert de Montille |
Perfumed, lifted but tightening up. The first impression of bright fruit on the palate quickly closes down. Not showing particularly well, but the structure is there - fine-grained tannins, firm acidity, good balance and definition and a well sustained finish. Wait 5 years. Drinking for 10 after that.
Score 17+ |
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| Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens, Hubert de Montille |
Richness and intensity on the palate combined with velvety tannins and tight acidity. Lovely black, slightly spicy fruit. Broad and a touch muscular, but not without elegance. Decent focus and harmony continue onto a persistent finish. Drink over 15 years.
Score 17+ |
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| Pernand 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses, Chandon de Briailles |
Perfumed, lively and elegant wine with a linear and well defined structure to the palate. Well balanced with firm acidity, chalky tannins and good density of fruit mid-palate. The finish is decent. Drink in a year or so and for at least 10 years.
Score 16 |
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| Aloxe-Corton Le Suchot, Domaine Simon Bize |
Red berrish aroma, with ‘sweet’ silky palate. Very bright with firm acidity, medium body and a moderate finish. Good typicité and vivacity. Closing down a little. Wait a year or so. Drink over 5 years.
Score 15+ |
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| Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Fournières, Domaine Tollot-Beaut et Fils |
Ripe, low-toned fruit. Tannins are dense and structural, just a little four square. The wine shows good intensity, depth, palate coverage and balance and the finish is decent. Needs a couple of years to integrate. Drink over the following 10 plus.
Score 16+ |
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| Corton Grand Cru, Domaine Bonneau du Martray |
Attractive wine and well balanced with bright fruit, but a little simple in structure and intensity. Drink over the medium term.
Score 15+ |
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| Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru, Domaine Chandon de Briailles |
Lifted aromatics of moderate intensity. Crunchy and intense palate with a firm structure. Elegant tannins and a racy long finish. Very Attractive. Wait 2 or 3 years. Drink over 10 to 15 years.
Score 17+ |
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| Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru, Domaine Sénard |
Juicy red fruits on the nose. Attractive fruit quality on the palate, if a little lacking in intensity for grand cru. Fullish body with slightly chunky tannins, but generally well structured with good balance and a pleasantly sustained finish. Drink now and over the next 8 years.
Score 16+ |
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| Corton Renardes Grand Cru, Michel Gaunoux |
Light perfume. Elegant but rather closed with fine tannins and bright acidity. An attractive, linear and clearly defined palate with a persistent finish. Compact energy. Wait 3 years, drink over the following 10 years plus.
Score 17 |
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| Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru, Domaine Senard |
Nose very closed. Muscular, rich and dense on the palate. Concentrated fruit, firm acidity, but rather chunky with showing somewhat robust tannins. Good finish. Wait short term and drink over 10 years.
Score 17 |
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| Marsannay Les Longeroies, Domaine Bruno Clair |
Delicious crunchy wine, with bright fruits, fine tannins and excellent balance. Stylish with a pretty good finish too. Absolutely top notch village wine from a lesser AC. Drink over 5-10 years.
Score 15 |
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| Nuits-Saint-Georges, Domaine Henri Gouges |
Dense, chewy, broad wine, with good palate density and taut, well defined meaty tannins. Harmonious, stylish and very long. Over delivers for a village wine. Wait 3 years or so to integrate and drink over the following 10.
Score 16 |
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| Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Dujac |
Black and purple vibrant aroma. Rich first impression with fresh acidity balancing the ripeness. A rounded palate, many layered with ripe, dense tannins. Firm structure and a powerful finish for a village wine. Wait 3 or 4 years. Drink over the next 10 plus.
Score 16+ |
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| Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Jean Grivot |
Very elegant, lifted pinot noir perfume supported by a palate which shows the potential for great harmony. A very even, fluid texture, with firm but velvety tannins and lively acidity. Lovely balance and a fine persistent finish. Top notch village wine. Wait 3 or 4 years and drink over 10 plus.
Score 16+ |
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| Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts, Domaine Jean Grivot |
If Grivot’s village wine is top notch this is an expected step up. Wonderful texture, velvety but grippy at the same time…power and elegance combined masterfully. Broad sweeping palate with firm focus at the core. Very persistent finish. Wait 5 years. Drink over the following 15.
Score 19 |
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| Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets Saint Georges, Domaine Henri Gouges |
Tight black spicy aromatics. Dense powerful wine, very concentrated, big slightly tarry tannins. Great typicité with a firm-structured profile, plenty of stuffing and a meaty persistent finish. Wait 5 o 6 years or so for the tannins to integrate and then drink over 15 years.
Score 18 |
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| Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains, Domaine Henri Gouges |
Dark profile, but more mineral and perfumed than the Clos des Porrets. Undoubtedly a firm structured wine, with muscular tannins, which are particularly marked on the powerful finish, but it also there is also a reserve and a glossy sleekness to this wine. Very, very long. Top quality. Wait until 2012 and then drink over 20 years.
Score 19 |
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| Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Boudots, Domaine Méo-Camuzet |
Seductive, perfumed and velvety wine. Unctuous, rounded, creamy-textured modern style Nuits-St-George. Persistently long ‘sweet’ finish. This is very expressive and accessible, but wait 2 or 3 years and drink for 10 plus
Score 17+ |
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| Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière, Domaine Georges Roumier |
A slightly uncomfortable wine at the moment but never-the-less it has a lively spicy aroma, ripe fruit and moderately fine tannins, good palate breadth and an attractive finish. Wait 3 or 4 years and over 10 plus.
Score 16+ |
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| Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras, Domaine Georges Roumier |
Very engaging aroma, perfumed and open. Rich and fluid palate with sumptuous, fine-grained tannins, vibrant acidity, excellent intensity and balance. Both seductive and elegant with a notably fine persistent finish. Very open now, but will probably close up. Wait 6 or 7 years and then drink over 15 years plus.
Score 19 |
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| Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées, Domaine Frédéric Mugnier |
Ethereal aroma. A light, but exceedingly intense palate with a fluid texture and a refined, superbly elegant tannic structure. Taut middle palate and a delicate mineral finish that goes on and on. Delicious. Closing down, so wait short term, then drink over 15 years plus.
Score 19 |
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| Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques, Domaine Bruno Clair |
Rich on nose and palate. Black fruit and densely textured. This is a powerful wine with a full-ripe tannic structure, plenty of acidity and complex layering. Requires 5 years to integrate, then drink for 15 plus.
Score 18 |
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| Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers, Domaine Faiveley |
Lifted and perfumed. Linear style, taut and mineral with firm structural tannins. Finely balanced and finishes very well. Needs 5 years. Drink over 15 years plus
Score 17+ |
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| Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot |
Closed on the nose. Skilful combination of firm structure and dense tannins with very good intensity and overall elegance and refinement. While undeniably a very fine wine, Grivot’s Vosne Romanée premier cru has the edge on personality. Give it 6-7 years. Drink over 15 plus.
Score 19 |
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| Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Château de La Tour Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Labet-Dechelette |
Attractive wine, well balanced with attractive fruit, fresh acidity and quite fine tannins, but lacking in complexity and finish for grand cru.
Score 15 |
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| Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Domaine Méo-Camuzet |
A very rich Clos de Vougeot. Luscious fruit and plenty of oak. Very concentrated, modern style. Vibrant acidity, ripe structural tannins and a plump body. Glossy texture. Powerful wine with a finish to match. Wait 5 years and drink over 15 years plus.
Score 18+ |
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| Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, Domaine Georges Roumier |
Intense black aromas, rich and slightly spicy. Ripe and rounded palate, dark with velvety tannins, and firm, dense structure yet it shows great restraint and refinement. Very complex and layered. Powerfully persistent finish. Wait at least 8 years. Drink over the following 20 plus years. Outstanding.
Score 20 |
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| Musigny Grand Cru, Domaine Frédéric Mugnier |
Intense but ethereal aroma. Very refined tannins. Great depth to the fruit, and a silky, fluid texture. This wine is delicate, but has great substance, complexity and finesses. The finish is remarkably persistent. This is quintessential Musigny. Don’t be deceived by the apparent lightness of this wine it has the perfectly balanced structure to age with grace. Leave it for 5 years and drink over 20 years. Sublime.
Score 20 |
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| Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Trapet |
Vibrant aromas followed by a lively palate. Well balanced with fine tannins, rather elegant but a little lean. Longish finish. Wait until 2010 and drink over the following 10 years.
Score 16 |
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| Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Trapet |
More intensity and depth of fruit on the palate than the Chapelle-Chambertin. Rather fragrant with a ‘sweet’ first impression. The fruit is restrained and quite mineral and the tannins chalky. Very linear, bordering on lean. Wait until 2010 and drink over the following 8-10 years.
Score 17 |
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| Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Faiveley |
Firm, spicy aroma and palate. Tight medium grained tannins, good harmony and a very decent finish. Needs quite a lot of time. Drink within 15 years.
Score 17+ |
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| Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Trapet |
Assertive aromatics and intense fruit, black and slight spice. Leanish style, but finely textured with a firm structural palate, good definition and a long mineral finish. Wait 6 or 7 years and drink over the following 10 years.
Score 17 |
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